Mosque Napping

A man was taking a nap after the mid-day prayer at a mosque on Jalan Pajajaran, Bandung.

The mosque is not only a place where people perform their prayers here. For some, it's also a place where they can take a rest or a nap, especially at the mid-day when it's hot outside. Mosques near work places or bus terminals are particularly popular among workers and travelers to rest or take a nap.

There have been some attempts by some mosque administrators to ask or remind people not to use the mosque as a napping or resting place. But they did not seem to heeded. The mosque is an open public space for Muslims and they think it is all right (appropriate?) to use the mosque as a resting place.

City of People: Knife Sharpening Man

One of the convenience of living in Bandung (and in Indonesia or other developing countries, for that matter, I think) is that you have different sorts of services available at your door steps whenever you need them. Everyday (well, nearly everyday), different sorts of tradesmen pass by my house touting their services. They offer services such as shoe or sofa repair, knife-sharpening, pruning out and weeding your garden, etc. All I need to do is call them in and they will happily give you the service you need for a small fee. This man passed by my house one Sunday when I was working on my front yard garden. He was touting knife-sharpening service, which I conveniently happened to need. The machete and garden scissors I was using were getting too dull for the pruning work I was doing. So, I called him in and voila, a few minutes later I had a sharp machete and scissors.

Banana Vendor at Cipaganti Street

This banana vendor is selling the fruit on the sidewalk of Jalan Cipaganti (Cipaganti Street). Vendors like this usually carry the fruit from the countrysides in the northern parts of Bandung on a scale-like carrier with bamboo baskets on both ends (called "rancatan" in Sundanese or "pikulan" in Indonesian - see picture) in the morning and waits for buyers on the street side all day. Jalan Cipaganti is a favorite place for these vendors because it is very shady with old-growth mahogany trees and a one-way and strategic street that connects the busy commercial parts of the city in the south and upscale residential areas in the north. As these vendors carry the fruit directly from their gardens/orchards, the price here is usually cheaper than that in the market or supermarket.

Street Photography # 5: Life at Bandung's Commuter Train

Bandung's commuter train, the KRD (Kereta Rel Disel), is quite probably unlike any other commuter trains you have ever seen, had a ride on, or even imagined. It is not only a means of transportation, but also virtually and quite literally a mobile market place. On board, you can find almost anything you would normally find in a market and more. Different vendors offering different stuffs like candies, drinks, cigarettes, foods, fruits, newspapers, and magazines are only some examples of what you can meet on board. You can also find street musicians, and even dancers performing for tips from the passangers on it.

Needless to say, comfort is not the key word on a KRD ride, but it's the cheapest and speediest means of transportation that connects Padalarang, a subburb town about 15 kilometers west of the city of Bandung, and Cicalengka, another subburb town about 17 kilometers east of Bandung, through the city.

The photo above is of a newspaper man offering newspapers to passangers on board the KRD.

Bandung Sundanese Traditional Wedding # 2

For the first part of the story please refer to previous post here.

After the welcoming ceremony is completed, the groom and his entourage would be escorted by the dancers to the reception area at the bride's home to meet her family members. Here, speeches are made, prayers said, and the groom's family present the gifts they have brought to the bride's family.



Then the bride and the groom would meet and togehter they would walk to the "altar" (usually a nearby mosque or an especially prepared platform at the reception area) where the bride's father (or somebody he has appointed to represent him) would perform the "ijab" (giving his daughter in marriage) and the groom perform the "kabul" (acceptance of the marriage from the father or legal guardian of the bride.). The couple would then recite their wedding vows as a wife and husband and, as required by the Indonesian law, sign the marriage certificate in front of the appointed official and witnesses.

There are several Sundanese traditional rituals that the married couple usually do after that. Among them are "saweran" (the throwing of coins, rice, and candies) to the audience and well-wishers), the groom's stepping on an egg or bamboo stick and the bride's washing the groom's foot, and, like what is shown in the picture below, "a chicken tug of war" (my translation), where the bride and the groom pull a "bakakak" (a sliced-open grilled chicken). It is believed that if the groom gets a larger piece of the chicken, they would be blessed with a son soon, and vice versa, if the bride gets the larger piece, then they would be blessed with a daughter.



The couple would then feed each other in a symbolic act that in a marriage a wife and a husband have the shared resposibility of supporting each other.

My World Tuesday Post: The Dance of The Peacock

I know, I promised you that I'd post the second installment of the photo essay about Bandung's traditional wedding; but the essay involves a lot of photos and quite a bit of a story to tell, and frankly speaking I'm a bit busy today and don't have the time to prepare and upload the photos and write the story. So, instead of continuing with the essay, today I bring you this photo of these beautiful "Tari Merak" dancers.

These "Tari Merak" (Dance of The Peacock) dancers are part of the party that welcome the groom's entourage at my friend's wedding last Sunday (see yesterday's post).

"Tari Merak" is a relatively new composition dance. It was coreographed by a prominent Bandung (Sundanese) artist Raden Tjetje Somantri in the 1950s. The graceful movements of this dance are inspired by the behavior of "burung merak" (the peacock), a native Indonesian bird that is known worldwide for its beautiful and colorful feathers.

The coreography of "Tari Merak" has been revised/modified twice since it was created. Both modifications were made by Irawati Durban Ardjo. The first modification was made in 1965, and the second in 1985.

This post is my participation for the new meme My World Tuesday. To see photos and stories from other participating blogs from around the world, please follow this link.

City of People # 15: Students

There is nothing more wonderful than seeing young people seriously at work like what these students of mine are doing.

This is the fifteenth post of my "City of People" series. City of People, as you may remember from my previous posts, is a series that is aimed at capturing the photographs of the people of Bandung from different walks of life doing different kinds of activities.

Bandung, by the way, is one of Indonesia's major educational centers. In fact, one of its nicknames is "Kota Pelajar" (City of Students). There are a least 16 universities and 45 academies and professional schools in this city. Bandung is the home of the three oldest and most prestigious state universities in Indonesia: Bandung Institute of Technology or ITB (established in 1920), Padjadjaran University (established in 1958), and Indonesia University of Education (UPI, established in 1956).

Bandung Street Documentary #2: Pedicab Drivers

This is my second post of Bandung Street Documentary series.

I took this photo of pedicab drivers waiting for passangers in front of Rancaekek commuter train station last week. Rancaekek is a small suburban town about 14 kilometers east of Bandung.

"Becak," the word for pedicab in Indonesian, used to be found in many parts of Bandung. By the city's regulation, now it can only operate in certain parts of the city and suburban areas.

Pedicab has many variants and different names in different parts of the world. It is called "becak" in Indonesia, "traysikad" in the Philippines, "beca" or "trishaw" in Malaysia and Singapore, "cyclo" in Vietnam and Cambodia, and "rickshaw" in the subcontinent Asia (India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh).

Idul Fitri Holiday Shopping in Bandung

I am afraid today's photos are not of good quality (the first one is obviously a bit shaky), but I have to keep and and post them here for the sake of reporting.

As I said yesterday, Moslems are going to celebrate Idul Firti soon. And like at Christmas or any other religious holidays, such an occasion usually means shopping.

Unlike in the Middle East or any other Moslem or Moslem-dominated countries, Idul Fitri in Indonesia and southeast Asian countries like Malaysia, Brunei Darussalam, and Singapore in general are considered to be a bigger and more festive holiday than Idul Adha (the other major Moslem holiday, which is considered a bigger holiday in the Middle East).

There are a lot of fascinating traditions in this area to celebrate Idul Fitri. One of these traditions is extended-family gathering. Kins from near and far would travel long distances just to get together at this time of the year. This tradition is called "mudik" or "pulang kampung" in Indonesia ("balik kampong" in Malaysia), which means more or less "returning home". It is customary for those who live in the cities to go back to the villages or smaller towns where they come from with "oleh-oleh" (gifts) for their extended families and kins. Families and friends would ask forgiveness for any intentional or unintentional trespasses and offeses they might have committed in the past year, and ties of "silaturahim" (compassion) are restored and strenghtened again.

It is also customary for them to dress their best (which usually means new clothes for everyone) and serve the most special foods for the occasion. With all these traditions, it is no wonder that shopping is an important part of the tradition. Shops will be packed with shoppers and shops and businesses, on the other hand, will offer great discounts to attract more customers. (This may sound familiar to those of you who celebrate Christmas. Yes, they are similar as far as the festive mood and shopping frenzy go.)

The shopping and traveling "frenzy" of course put a lot of constraints in logistics. Prices of some basic commodities (and inflation) would usually go up (if only slightly) as businesses are going briskier, roads are packed with travellers/holiday-makers as are trains, commercial flights, and ships.



I took today's photographs at Istana Plaza Shopping Mall, Bandung, a couple of days ago. The top photo is of things offered for sale at the hall of this mall. The bottom photo is of a large camel dolls (?) near the entrance. Somehow, camel - being an animal of the Middle East - is considered as a mascot for the holiday in this mall. Kids love them and, as you can see in the photo, would want a ride on them.

Iftar at Istana Plaza Shopping Mall Bandung

In about three days' time, Moslems all over the world are going to celebrate Iedul Fitri, one of the two major Moslem holidays. Prior to Iedul Fitri, Moslems have to observe a whole month of fasting, called Ramadan (after the name of the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar in which this observance has to be performed).

During Ramadan, Moslems fast, i.e. refrain from eating and drinking anything from true dawn until sunset. Before performing the fast, Moslems are encouraged (some say obliged) to have a very early breakfast called suhur/sahur, and upon sunset (maghrib), they break the fast with a meal called iftar. Apart from refraining from eating and drinking, the Ramadan fasting is also a month of good deeds, benevolence, and patience.

For Moslems, the fasting month of Ramadan is considered as a spiritual training camp where they learn patience, sacrifice, and humility to purify their spiritual life. In relation to this, Iedul Fitri is considered as the day of victory against their own evils and impurity.

I took the above photo at iftar time today at Istana Plaza Shopping Mall's food court, Bandung. Iftar time is usually a busy time for restaurants and diners as many Moslems who are out and about go to these places to have their iftar. Note, however, that most Moslem families in Indonesia prefer to have their iftar at home where the homemakers usually prepare special foods for it.

"Alun-alun" Bandung - Life at Bandung's City Square #1

"Tahu Gejrot" vendor at Bandung City Square - ©Eki Qushay Akhwan

Text and pictures copyrights ©Eki Qushay Akhwan, all rights reserved

City square (or in Indonesian "alun-alun") holds a very important function in the Javanese cosmological concept of a city. Alun-alun is not just an open public space or park in the center of the city. It is literally the front yard of a king/ruler's palace/residence. Surrounding it are the various symbols of a society/nation's livelihood. By rule, the palace should be located on the southern part of the square, facing north. On the west is placed a house of worship (the divine element: a mosque in Moslem Indonesia; a temple in Hindu era Indonesia). East of the square is the place for the market (the mundane/worldly element), and north is the place for the administrative offices of the kingdom/country/city.

Bandung's city square is as old as the city itself. The square was built as part of the new capital city of Bandung Regency in the early 19th century (before then, the capital was located at Dayeuh Kolot [old city], further south of where the current city square is located). The square's face has undergone a lot of changes since then, but one thing remains the same: It's still a bustling, open public space where citizens meet and do different kinds of activities.

In this series of photo coverage, I am trying to show you what life is like at Bandung's City Square today.


Leatherware and trinkets vendor at Bandung City Square - ©Eki Qushay Akhwan



"Sate" vendor at Bandung City Square - ©Eki Qushay Akhwan

Jay-walking or Bridge-crossing? (And the Winning Photo)

Text and pictures by © Eki Qushay Akhwan, all rights reserved.

People using the pedestrian crossing bridge to cross the street like in the above photo is probably a common sight in some other countries, but it is not in Bandung. Many people here prefer to jaywalk to cross the street rather than using the pedestrian crossing bridge. One of the reasons is perhaps because our streets are relatively narrow and it takes more time and energy to cross them safely using the pedestrian crossing bridge than jaywalking, despite the risks. But then, when it is an expected thing, everybody knows what to do. Motorists would usually slow down and yield to jaywalkers when they already give a gesture with their hands that they want to cross the street. It's a kind of mutual understanding that makes up our "street culture". Of course, sometimes accidents do happen, but, amazingly, they are very rare.



The government has of course made the necessary efforts to promote the use of pedestrian crossing bridge. There are laws and regulations that give protection to pedestrians who use the crossing bridge or the zebra cross to cross the street (a legal protection that is not given to jaywalkers), but without enforcement, the old habit seems to die hard.

It's good to see that more and more people begin to use the pedestrian crossing bridge like in the top photo which I took on Jalan Raya Cimahi, a town about 12 kilometers west of Bandung. (Cimahi is administratively a separate municipality, but it is still part of the Greater Bandung area.)

I took the bottom photo on Asia Afrika Street (Bandung's main street and city center). A similar picture that I took has won a prize worth $US 200 from Reader's Digest Asia and been published in its May 2008 edition. You can check it out here.

Umbrella Taxi Kids

Text and picture by Eki Qushay Akhwan

Being caught in the rain can be annoying if you are not prepared with an umbrella. But that does not need to happen in Bandung. For a small fee, these children will be more than happy to lend their umbreallas and escort you to your car or a near by bus stop. Locals call these children with umbrellas "ojeg payung" or umbrella taxi.

I took this photo in front of a book store on Purnawarman Street, Bandung.


Note about the photograph:
A photographer's quick reaction and alertness are very important in sreet photography. An interesting moment sometimes happens only in a split second. I had my digital point and shoot camera out when this scene presented itself, but I was not quite prepared to capture it. I tried my luck anyway. I think I did not quite miss the moment, but the setting and the shutter lag*) of my point and shoot camera made this picture a bit blurred and the highlight areas overexposed.

*) Shutter lag: The delay between the actual moment the camera shutter is pressed and the time the photograph is recorded. Point and shoot pocket digital cameras are especially prone to this phenomenon because of the time it takes for these cameras to charge the CCD (Charge-Coupled Device) and the slow transmission rate of the data to the circuitry of the camera for processing and storage.

Photo basic technical data:
Equipment: Canon PowerShot A510, 3.2 megapixel point and shoot camera
Shutter speed: 1/60 sec.
Aperture: F/2.6
Metering mode: Pattern

Bandung Urban Scenes - Exploring Urban Photography #2

Text and picture Eki Qushay Akhwan

As I Was saying yesterday, urban photography is esentially about finding "order" in what looks like a chaotic realities of urban life. Patterns are one thing that we can look for. Another thing that we can look for to comprehend the chaos is the human elements - their activities, their day to day struggles in navigating the hustle and bustle of a city, etc. Unlike the geometric or "still life" elements, the human factor tells the story of a city through motions (and emotions).

The focus on the human element is, I think, where urban photography intersects with street photography.

I took the scene in the above photo on Jalan Suniaraja (Suniaraja Street), Bandung. Three human figures in the photo depict motions of different kinds symbolic of their stuggles in finding their ways to their uban existence.

The Road to Freedom is Full of Perils

Text and pictures by Eki Qushay Akhwan

Repainting buildings and cleaning up the neighborhoods are parts of our tradition in celebrating our Independence Day. They have the symbolic meanings of renewing our spirits of patriotism and act as some sort of sacred anniversary wish that the republic that our forefathers and mothers have founded with their sacrifices may see a brighter and better future.

The workers you see in the picture above are repainting the facade of Gedung Sate (West Java Governor's Office Mansion). They were relying only on bamboo scaffolds to do their job. It is a perilous job indeed considering the height of the building. While the road to our independence was really littered with perils, I don't think this should be re-enacted today, sixty three years after we declared independence. The road to our independence my be full of perils, but the future should see a more just and prosperous Indonesia.

Here is another picture of workers repainting Bandung City Hall. The ground job is of course not as risky as that in the top picture.

AYAH BUNDA (Mom and Dad)

Picture and text by Eki Qushay Akhwan

Culture plays a significant role in the creation of gender roles; and child rearing is one of the primary means with which culture produces and reproduces these roles. This is not the place for an anthropological or cultural-studies lecture about gender issues, but I hope these two snapshots can give you a general visual stimulation on how a mother and a father treat a child. Perhaps what you see here is not very different from what you see where you are. Or are they?

By the way, Ayah Bunda, the title of this post literally translates into Dad (Ayah) and Mom (Bunda) - thus, in our culture, father takes precedence over mother. In English, of course, the appropriate phrase is Mom and Dad.

Bandung Daily Photo

Shoe Deposit Counter

Text and picture ©Eki Qushay Akhwan

You have to take off our footwears to enter a mosque. Leaving your shoes or footwears outside the mosque might not be a good idea if there are a lot of people going into the mosque at the same time like during the Friday prayer service. For security and convenience, big mosques like this one at the Indonesia University of Education campus in Bandung, provides a shoe deposit counter where you can leave your footwears and claim them later after the prayer. The counter service is usually open only on Friday during the Friday prayer service. I don't know if you could find this anywhere else, but in big mosques in Indonesia this is a common practice.

By the way, these people are claiming their footwears from the deposit counter after the Friday prayer service that I attended today.

Bandung, Daily Customs

THE GASIBU STORY 01

Text and pictures ©Eki Qushay Akhwan


Of all Bandung icons, Lapangan Gasibu, or the Gasibu Square, is probably the most symbolic. Located just accross the street from Gedung Sate (the West Java governor's office mansion) and the Provincial Council Offices complex, it is literally the center of everything's going on in Bandung. Political ralies and demonstrators go here to have their voices heard, entertainment events are staged here for the Bandungese to enjoy, mass prayers are held here at least twice a year during the Moslems' holidays of Idul Fitri and Idul Adha. Think of any activities you like (or don't like), and chances are you can find people doing them here: from the spiritual to the mundane, private to public, philantropic to commercial.


And every Sunday morning, this place and its surrounding areas are bursting with life. Bandungese of all walks of life go here to exercise or just stroll and shop. Yes, shop! Stalls and street traders of all kinds selling foods, clothes, home accessories, toys, and even pets are found here. One day in a week, this place turns into a marketplace where you can find everything and anything. Here are some snapshots.




Young enterpreneurial spirit at Gasibu: Two youngsters selling rabbit pets to an eager buyer.




A juggler offers a free entertainment to the Sunday walkers.




Colorful scarfs - one of the many wares sold at Gasibu.




As if symbolic of the real life, poverty and social problems are also represented here.